Braly: Save money and cook while in Paris — no, it won’t wreck your vacation

Heading to Paris for a vacation? It’s not cheap – especially the airfares – but you can save money if you plan.

First off, summer is the most expensive time to fly; winter the cheapest; fall and spring somewhere in between. You also can rent an apartment through such websites as VRBO.com, which will save on lodging.

Then, since these apartments have kitchens, you can cook your own food once you’re in Paris. That may sound like it’s taking some of the thrill out a vacation, but you can make it part of the fun. Paris is as well-known for its extraordinary markets as it is for its restaurants. In the markets, you’ll find fresh fish, breads and cheeses, as well as fruits and vegetables in season.

In order to find the best of the best markets, check out “My Paris Market Cookbook: A Culinary Tour of French Flavors and Seasonal Recipes” by Emily Dilling, an American food blogger who has lived in Paris for the past decade. As the subtitle states, it’s a tour of French flavors as well as recipes and can help you bring home and create dishes with French flair for a fraction of the cost of eating out.

Here are some of her favorites:

Marche President Wilson: Large selection of artisanal meats and cheeses as well as local wines. Address: Avenue de President Wilson, 16th Arrondissement (French for “neighborhood”). Open: 7 a.m.-3 p.m. Wednesdays-Saturdays.

Marche Daumesnil: Wide selection of produce from the Ile-de-France region, as well as vendors selling baked goods. Address: Boulevard de Reuilly, 12th Arrondissement. Open: 7 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Tuesdays and Fridays.

Marche Saxe-Breteuil: Located in full view of the Eiffel Tower, this market has a serious supply of fresh produce, fish, meats, fruits, textiles and cooking supplies. Address: Avenue de Saxe, 7th Arrondissement. Open: 7 a.m.-2:30 pm. Thursdays and Saturdays.

Marche Raspail: One of Paris’ all-organic markets, this small, popular market is a favorite among American ex-pats. Lovely fresh fruits and vegetables, as well as breads. It’s also known to be the best market for eggs in the city. And Paris does loves its eggs. Address: Boulevard Raspail, 6 Arrondissement. Open: Regular market from 7 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Tuesdays and Fridays; organic market from 9 a.m.-3 p.m. Sundays.

For your kitchen adventures, here are some straight-from-Paris recipes from Dilling’s blog: Paris Paysanne:

Family Dinner Coq au Vin

4 pounds chicken; mixture of thighs, breasts, drumsticks, and wings (add 2-3 pieces of chicken for each additional person)

1/2 pound diced bacon

2 cups button mushrooms

10 small white or yellow onions

2 cups full-bodied red wine

2 cups beef or chicken stock

2 tablespoons tomato paste

3 tablespoons flour

2 cloves garlic

Olive oil

1/4 teaspoon thyme

1 bay leaf

1 teaspoon salt

Prepare to brown your chicken by cooking bacon in a large pot until it renders its fat.

In the meantime, wash the chicken and then dry chicken pieces with a clean dish towel. After about 5 minutes, remove bacon from pot and set aside. Add more olive oil to pot if necessary, and arrange chicken pieces in one layer on the bottom of the pot. Cook, turning the chicken occasionally, for 6-8 minutes.

Add onions, bay leaf, salt and thyme. Cover and cook on low heat for 5 minutes. Turn chicken over and season to taste, then cover and cook an additional 5 minutes.

Add flour, lightly coating the chicken. Add red wine and stock, stirring to make sure there are no clumps of flour in your sauce. Add the browned bacon, tomato paste, and pressed garlic. Cover and cook for 20 minutes. Test chicken and onions after 20 minutes, they should be easily pierced with a fork. If this is not the case, continuing cooking until done.

Add mushrooms, cover and cook an additional 5 minutes. At this point you can taste your sauce and season as necessary. If the sauce is not thick enough, bring the pot to a quick boil until you have the desired consistency. Serve with rice or shell beans and your choice of seasonal vegetable.

Serves 6.

End-of-Summer Pistou Soup/Soupe au Pistou

For the soup

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 1/2 cup beans (dried or fresh) of your choice

1 cup green beans

1 onion

1 leek

1 zucchini

2 large potatoes

3 large tomatoes

1 1/2 cup elbow pasta

2 teaspoons ethyme

1 bay leaf

Salt and pepper to taste

For the pistou

1 clove garlic

1 pinch sea salt

2 cups (1 bunch) fresh basil leaves

1/4 cup olive oil

4 tablespoons Parmesan cheese

If using dried beans, soak overnight and then cook in boiling water for 1 hour before using.

In a Dutch oven or crock pot, heat olive oil on medium-high heat. Add onions and leeks and cook until onions are translucent, 3-5 minutes. Add potatoes, thyme, bay leaf, and a dash of salt and pepper and cook another 5 minutes, stirring occasionally to keep ingredients from sticking to the pot.

Add zucchini and green beans and cook 5 minutes then add tomatoes and beans, cover and cook on medium heat for 10 minutes. Uncover and add enough water to submerge the veggies. Stir in pasta and bring to a boil. Cook for another 10-15 minutes, or until pasta is done. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

While waiting for pasta to cook, prepare your pistou. Using a mortar and pestle or a food processor, mash together garlic with a pinch of sea salt. Add chopped basil leaves, pounding or pulsing until you have a rough paste, smooth but not liquid. Slowly add olive oil while pounding/pulsing until combined. Stir in cheese and season with salt to taste.

Serve soup immediately, topped with a spoonful of pistou and sprinkled with Parmesan cheese.

Contact Anne Braly at abraly@timesfreepress.com.