Side Orders: Lemon squares perfect for picnics, parties

Anne Braly

For those who are crazy about them, there is no such thing as a bad lemon square. It's just that some are much better than others. Ever since the first lemon bars came out in the 1940s, cooks have tried to reinvent them, and doing so is akin to reinventing the wheel. What was wrong with the original? Some cooks have added coconut to the crust. Others have tried making them with a graham cracker crust. That, I just don't get.

photo Anne Braly

They've also fiddled with fillings, adding sweetened condensed milk, making it more like one of those lusciously creamy lemon pies. But we're talking lemon squares here, not pie. And there are even recipes turning them green with food coloring or adding mint leaves to the mix.