Fare Exchange: Reader in need of sandwich ideas to rejuvenate her husband’s lunch box

Where did June go? Here are some things to think about, and perhaps even to solve, in the brief taste of June remaining.

» Rhonda McDaniel of Flintstone, Georgia, describes herself as “a fan of Fare Exchange. Thanks for the good food ideas. I am so bored with the daily sandwiches I make for lunch for my husband to take to work. After 25 years of marriage, I’m out of sandwich ideas. He often eats on the go, so it needs to be portable, and I make them the night before, so I try to avoid soggy items. I will look for some new ideas in Fare Exchange.”

I am confident that when she looks for those ideas, she will find them.

» Ann Taylor revived a request made long ago. “I am looking for a recipe for pickles that were served at Shapiro’s Deli years ago. I think they were served from a bowl or jar on the counter while you waited for your order.” Because delicatessens were few in those days, just walking into Shapiro’s on Cherry Street was an experience. I think of the aroma of fresh bread and pastrami, as this was the place to buy pastrami, Swiss and rye for the best possible Reuben sandwiches. Once upon a time, Reuben sandwiches were hard to find and easier to make at home.

» A certain guest sat cross-legged among friends, talking of sweet things. She was remembering the simple pleasure of pound cakes, simple though dense and rich. She likes the idea of a cake that doesn’t need leavening from baking soda and baking powder and, therefore, seems more dependable. The particular cakes she is looking for are a Hershey’s pound cake printed many years ago in Fare Exchange and a cream cheese pound cake with a similar history, as well as a coconut pound cake. And if she has not listed your favorite pound cake and you have a recipe, send that too. I am remembering one particular version well known in Chattanooga history: Gertrude Newby’s pound cake. But who would dare to cook one so perfected by Gertrude herself?

SHORTBREAD

We continue with the contents of a recent collection from E. of Henagar, Alabama, who found this one in the Gadsden Times, attributed to Daniel Neman, who got it from “Dining In” by Alison Roman. (It would be fascinating to trace your favorite recipe from its source through books and friends and newspapers and then through more of each of those.)

Salted Butter and Chocolate Chunk Shortbread

18 tablespoons (2 1/4 sticks) salted butter, cut into 1/2-inch pieces

1/2 cup granulated sugar

1/4 cup light brown sugar

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

2 1/4 cups all-purpose flour

8 ounces semi-sweet or bittersweet dark chocolate, chopped into chunks but not too fine

1 large egg, beaten

Demerara or turbinado sugar for rolling

Flaky sea salt or kosher salt

Line 1 or 2 rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper.

Using an electric mixer and a medium bowl or a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter, both sugars and vanilla on medium-high until it’s very light and fluffy, 3 to 5 minutes. Use a spatula to scrape down the sides of the bowl. With the mixer on low, add the flour, followed by the chocolate chunks, and beat just to blend.

Divide the dough in half, placing each half on a large piece of plastic wrap. Fold the plastic over so that it covers the dough (this will protect your hands from getting sticky). Use your hands to form the dough into a log shape 2 to 2 1/2 inches in diameter. Rolling it on the counter will help smooth it out; it does not have to be perfect. Refrigerate until very firm, about 2 hours.

Heat oven to 350 degrees. Brush the outside of the logs with the beaten egg, and roll them in the demerara or turbinado sugar.

Slice each log into 1/2-inch-thick rounds, place them on the prepared baking sheets about 1 inch apart and sprinkle with flaky or kosher salt. Bake until the edges are just beginning to brown, 12 to 15 minutes. Cool on the baking sheet for 1 minute, then transfer to a wire rack.

FOOD FINDS

The Sundays continue the foodie conversation, always to our edification. “A few weeks ago someone wrote to ask about where kabocha squash might be found. We were in Asian Food & Gifts on Hixson Pike today (Thursday is Banh Mi day) and noticed that they carry kabocha at 99 cents a pound as well as other Asian produce, all looking good.

“Our neighbors tell us that Carniceria Loa (Main and Broad) has good produce (skewed toward Latino cuisine) and better service. (‘When did you want that avocado to be ripe? Buy this one.’)”

Another specialty item on the Latino shelf is recommended by Emily E., Badia brand hibiscus tea. “It is good without sugar or sugar substitute, and is a pretty ruby color.”

EGGS AND GEOGRAPHY

The Sundays also wrote “in praise of Susan Potts, who has added to our list of tricks. (Her method for hard-boiled eggs is to place eggs in boiling water, boil for 13 minutes, remove the pan from the stove and drain, then replace boiled water with ice and cold water for 5 minutes.) What was new to us was the idea of not only shocking the eggs but actually chilling them for 5 minutes or at least as long as it takes to make them release from their shells.

“Hard-boiled eggs are trickier than you might think. Cooking hard-boiled eggs is a function of temperature and time. Too hot or too long, and you end up with ugly-looking and -tasting green rings. Too cool or too short, and you end up with undercooked eggs.

“Recipes are especially hard to write when you factor in geography. For example: ‘Start with cold water.’ Cold water in January in Maine is way different from cold water in August in lower Alabama or Phoenix in August. Also, at sea level, water boils at 212 degrees but at high altitude (Colorado, say) it can be as low as 190.

“Another complication is heat transfer. Liquid (boiling water) conducts heat much better than gases (including steam), but steam can get hotter than 212. You also have to consider the size of the egg. Jumbos cook slower than larges.

“The goal is to reduce the number of variables to ensure consistent results. We usually use steaming at a high simmer for the amount of time that works for a given altitude and egg size.

“For us (our pots, stove, judgment, etc.), steaming jumbos here in Chattanooga reliably takes 17 minutes from the time the refrigerator-cold eggs are placed into the steamer basket over already high-simmering water at medium heat until they’re iced and this still isn’t precise.”

And they commend Potts’ general method to try something in the kitchen a few times until you see what works for you, then adjust as needed.

We are grateful to all of you, for all of you, all of the time. Keep it all up.