Serve & Protect, the Tennessee Aquarium’s annual fundraising dinner, was canceled last year due to surges of the COVID Delta variant. But it’s hoping for a redo this time around.
Planning for its 11th annual dinner on Sept. 22, the aquarium will feature golden tilefish and summer flounder — two species once identified by the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration as being overfished, but that have recently made a comeback thanks to sustainable seafood practices.
That’s the goal of Serve & Protect, to promote such practices.
Each year, the event includes a live cooking demonstration combined with an elegant seated dinner. This year’s event will carry over components from the one planned for last year: the demonstration will take place at the IMAX theater followed by dinner across the street at the aquarium, and it will feature a “comeback” theme, alluding to both flounder and tilefish populations, as well as the event itself.
“This isn’t one of those events that I thought would [come back], but I’m so grateful that it is,” says Deborah VanTrece, one of the two chefs to be featured. After globetrotting for 25 years, VanTrece began her culinary career in 1994, and in 2014, she opened the popular Twisted Soul Cookhouse & Pours in Atlanta. Her recipes have been featured at the James Beard House and in “American Cuisine” cookbook.
VanTrece will cook alongside fellow Atlantan Tamie Cook, the event’s emcee and longtime supporter. Cook, who formerly worked on Food Network’s “Good Eats” television show, has helped produce Serve & Protect for the past 10 years. During that time, the event has raised more than $1.7 million.
In addition to sustainable seafood practices, Serve & Protect hopes to highlight the benefit that seafood can have for mental health. According to reports from the World Health Organization and the National Center for Health Statistics, depression and anxiety are on the rise, affecting 1 in 17 adults in the U.S., with twice as many women as men affected. Multiple studies have shown that those who regularly eat fish, compared to those who do not, are 20% less likely to suffer from depression — a result of the omega-3s found in fish which help to boost the brain. In fact, the American Psychiatric Association has endorsed these fatty acids in fish as an effective part of depression treatment.
“We want to show people that not only are you making good choices for the ocean, but you’re also making good choices for yourself,” says Thom Benson, communications manager for the Tennessee Aquarium.
“We try to introduce at least one species that people aren’t too familiar with,” says Cook.
One of the points that the team wants to get across with the event is that there are species of delicious and healthy fish beyond the common (and potentially overfished) ones, like salmon. Tilefish, for example, says Cook, has a buttery flavor profile similar to lobster, but many people have never heard of it.
Tilefish is a colorful marine species, found from Florida to Nova Scotia, with many stocks no longer subject to overfishing, according to the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration fisheries’ species directory. The same is true for summer flounder, a species that can be found on the North Carolina coast.
Buying fish as locally as possible allows for more conservation and decreases overfishing, Cook says.
Her recipes will include a steamed tilefish and bok choy with Szechuan soy sauce, and flounder tacos.
Her goal is to create a recipe that can be easily replicated. She wants people to see how easy it is to incorporate Asian elements into their dishes. Plus, she wants them to discover new fish.
These are species that people “might not actually try on their own,” says Cook, “but when they see someone make it and realize how simple it is, then it hopefully will encourage people to branch out.”
VanTrece plans to prepare a flounder ravioli with arrabiata marinara, which she says was inspired by her experience of other cultures and family history.
“I feel like every culture has their version of soul food,” says VanTrece, “so the recipes I came up with are in line with what I do. The ravioli for me was a little bit of Southern and Italian — and then using the tilefish in a Creole preparation, my grandfather was from Louisiana, and so I also love playing with Creole dishes.”
Both say they are excited to be sharing the stage again.
“One of the reasons I enjoy Deborah is she approaches hospitality the same way that I do,” says Cook. “At the end of the day when we’re in service to others through food, being hospitable is the priority. When that’s your focus you can’t go wrong.”
Photo contributed by Tamie Cook / One of Tamie Cook’s recipes for this year’s Serve & Protect includes buttery steamed tilefish with bok choy and a szechuan soy sauce. Cook was inspired to use Asian seasonings to show attendees how easy they are to use and how they make a dish more interesting.Steamed Tilefish and Bok Choy with Szechuan Soy Broth
Recipe courtesy Tamie Cook
Serves 2
What you need
1 lemon, thinly sliced
2 (4-6 ounce) tilefish fillets
1 teaspoon sesame oil
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
Generous pinch white pepper
2 small heads bok choy, sliced in half lengthwise
4 scallions, sliced on the bias
1 1/2-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and julienned
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 1/2 teaspoons Szechuan peppercorns, crushed
1/4 cup soy sauce
1 tablespoon white wine or sake
2 teaspoons honey
2 teaspoons cilantro leaves
What you do
Set up a steamer basket large enough to hold fish and vegetables and line the bottom of the basket with lemon slices. Add 2 inches of water to a wok, sauté pan or pot large enough to hold the basket. Set over medium heat, place the basket in the wok and bring the water to a simmer.
While the water is coming to a simmer and lemons are beginning to cook, brush the fillets on both sides with sesame oil and season with salt and pepper. Lay the fillets on half of the lemons and place the bok choy, cut side down, on the other half. Evenly spread 1/2 of the scallions and ginger on top of both fish and bok choy. Cover and steam for 6 to 8 minutes or just until the fish is cooked through.
In the meantime, place the vegetable oil in a small saucepan and set over medium heat. Once the oil shimmers, add the remaining scallions and ginger and cook for 1 to 2 minutes or until the scallions begin to wilt. Add the peppercorns, soy sauce, white wine and honey. Cook until simmering, about 30 seconds. Move the fish and bok choy from the basket to two shallow serving bowls, sprinkle with cilantro leaves and pour the simmering liquid over top. Serve immediately.
Flounder Ravioli with Arrabiata Marinara
Recipe courtesy Deborah VanTrece
Serves 6 to 8
What you need
For the ravioli:
2 pounds flounder fillets, rinsed and patted dry
2 teaspoons sea salt, plus a pinch for the cooking water
1 teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper
1 teaspoon minced garlic
3 tablespoons olive oil
15 ounces whole milk ricotta cheese
1 cup arugula, finely chopped
½ cup red bell pepper, diced
1 tablespoon minced shallot
½ cup grated Parmesan cheese
2 teaspoons Old Bay Seasoning
1 egg, beaten
2 packages wonton wrappers
For the arrabiata marinara:
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 small onion, chopped
1 tablespoon garlic, minced
1 28-ounce can San Marzano tomatoes
1 6-ounce can tomato paste
3 cups vegetable stock
1 tablespoon fresh oregano, chopped
2 tablespoons fresh basil, chopped
2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 teaspoon red pepper flakes
What you do
For the sauce:
Heat the olive oil in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the onions and sauté until translucent, 3 to 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium and add the garlic and tomatoes.
Using a wooden spoon or potato masher, crush tomatoes in the saucepan. Continue cooking for 5 minutes, stirring frequently. Add the tomato paste, vegetable stock, oregano and basil and stir to combine. Reduce the heat to low and simmer 10 minutes, stirring often to prevent sticking.
Remove saucepan from heat. Stir in the salt and red pepper flakes. Taste and adjust the seasoning as desired. Set aside until ready to use. Reheat over low heat when ready to serve.
For the ravioli:
Combine the salt, black pepper, garlic and olive oil in a small bowl. Rub the mixture on all sides of the fish fillets. Place fish on a baking sheet and place in the oven for 10 to 15 minutes or until cooked through. Remove the pan from the oven and cool the fish until able to handle.
Using your hands or a fork, pull apart the fish, making sure to discard any bones or skin. Place the fish in a large mixing bowl. Add the ricotta cheese, arugula, bell pepper, shallot, Parmesan, Old Bay and egg to the bowl and toss to combine ingredients well. The filling consistency should be firm.
To assemble, lay a wonton wrapper on a clean dry surface. Place 1 heaping tablespoon of filling in the middle of the wrapper. Lightly moisten the edges of the wrapper with water and place another wonton on top. Press around the edges firmly to seal. Once sealed, use a 2-inch cookie cutter to cut into rounds. Moisten the edges a little more as needed to completely close the ravioli. Place the formed ravioli on a parchment-lined sheet pan when finished. Do not overlap. Once the sheet pan is full, place another sheet of parchment paper on top and place another layer of finished ravioli. Repeat until finished. After 3 layers, use another sheet pan. Cover tightly and refrigerate or freeze until ready to cook.
To cook, bring 5 quarts of water to a boil and add a pinch of salt. Add the ravioli and give them a gentle stir. Cook 3 to 5 minutes or until the wrapper is tender and the filling is cooked through. Drain the cooked ravioli in a colander.
Toss the ravioli in the warm sauce and serve immediately.
Photo contributed by Tennessee Aquarium / In conjunction with the dinner, the event’s online auction will include this piece of art created by local artist Kevin Bate with help from the community.Second helping
Inspired by Serve and Protect’s recipes? Tamie Cook says the inspiration for her dish came from “The Rise: Black Cooks and the Soul of American Food: A Cookbook” by Marcus Samuelson. The collection highlights Black chefs in the United States and the various cuisines of their cultures.
Support sustainability
In addition to the Serve and Protect dinner, there will be a silent auction to help support the institution’s conservation work. The auction begins Sept. 19 and ends Sept. 26, and will feature unique aquarium experiences such as up-close animal encounters, one-of-a-kind animal art and more. Visit tnaqua.org/serve-and-protect for more.