Slow and steady wins the race. This famous line from Aesop’s fables is a sentiment that chef Kenyatta Ashford knows with every fiber of his being.
“I think I knew my journey was going to be a long one,” Ashford said by phone. “I’m not necessarily the guy who gets it on the first try. … Being patient with myself has allowed me to make it this far.”
After years of hard work and perseverance, Neutral Ground is coming back. Ashford first opened the beloved restaurant on June 19, 2020, using space in the Proof Bar and Incubator until 2022. This spring in a cozy brick building with big windows, at 338 E. Main St., he will open his doors to a new future, adding to a Southside restaurant row featuring Alleia, Niedlov’s, State of Confusion and more.
But first, let’s start at the beginning.
In the balmy New Orleans heat, Ashford remembers his mother’s cooking. She was the plumb line of all things culinary for the extended family. From Christmas to Thanksgiving to Mardi Gras, relatives would travel from all over Louisiana, Detroit and Milwaukee to be in her kitchen. Red beans and rice simmered on the stove, colorful plates held Haitian spaghetti, and noodles swam in beef broth for a hearty serving of yakamein. All these flavors informed Ashford’s palate and his sense of place.