Winter is fully upon us, and as we welcome this season of chilly weather, it’s brought on a craving for the richer flavors that bring on the comfort that we need this time of year.
One of the loveliest of those flavors is that classic Mediterranean combination for roasted meats and poultry: garlic, rosemary and white wine. It really knows no season, but especially when it’s married with pork, it becomes the very essence of winter and is one of the best ways I know to welcome the season in spite of the chill.
My favorite way to pair pork with those flavors is to coat a whole loin of pork with salt, pepper, garlic and fresh rosemary, then slowly braise it in the oven with wine until it’s fork-tender.
Unfortunately, it’s something I only make when we have company, because it has to be done with a larger cut, and that’s not practical for only two people.
A single tenderloin, on the other hand, is just right for two. And while that cut is the pig’s equivalent of a boneless, skinless chicken breast and not the most flavorful meat on the animal since there’s little if any fat, cooking it with those classic seasonings really brings out its best.
As its bewitching aroma filled the house when I made it last week, it seemed to comfort better than a favorite old sweater on a frosty evening.
We usually get two meals out of a single tender, but how many it will serve at your table will depend on the weight of the tenderloin and the appetites of those who’ll share it. Our usual accompaniment is thin spaghetti tossed with butter and Parmesan. Or keep it simple and sauce the pasta with some of the pan gravy.
Pork Tenderloin with Garlic, Rosemary and White Wine
1 pork tenderloin
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 rounded tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary (or 1 teaspoon dried)
1 large clove garlic, lightly crushed and chopped fine
Extra-virgin olive oil
Dry white wine or extra-dry white vermouth
Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat it to 375 degrees F. Trim the tenderloin by removing the outer membrane and any excess fat, then peel off the silver skin with a sharp paring knife. Fold the narrow tapered end over itself so that it is roughly the same thickness as the rest of the meat and securely tie it with kitchen twine. Season with salt and pepper on all sides. Mix together the rosemary and garlic and press evenly into the meat.
Warm a 10-inch seasoned cast-iron skillet or braising pan over medium heat for 3-4 minutes. Film the bottom with olive oil and put in the tenderloin. Brown it lightly on all sides (about 1 1/2 to 2 minutes per side). Carefully scoop out any loose bits of garlic that start to get too brown.
Add enough wine to the pan to come halfway up the sides of the meat, let it come to a boil, and turn off the heat. Transfer the pan to the oven and bake until it’s done to your liking, about 15-20 minutes for medium, 25 for medium-well. Remove the pan from the oven and transfer the meat to a warm plate or platter, cover it and let it rest for at least 10 minutes.
Return the pan to direct medium-high heat. Bring the liquid to a boil and cook, occasionally stirring and scraping up any cooking residue that may be stuck to the bottom of the pan, until it is reduced and lightly thickened. Add any juice that may be accumulated in the plate holding the meat, give it a stir and turn off the heat.
Pour the sauce into a warmed bowl or gravy boat. Thinly slice the tenderloin on the diagonal, arrange it on the plate, drizzle with a little of the sauce, and serve with the remaining sauce passed separately.
GO MELLOW
Mellow Mushroom’s new wings are flying out of the kitchen, particularly the new lemon pepper flavored ones. The wings are boneless and come in several flavors, including Caribbean jerk, sweet Thai chili and buffalo, in both hot and mild heats. And of course, the lemon pepper.
Also, through the end of January, the restaurant will offer its Mellow deal: a two topping medium pizza for $12.95. Just be sure to ask specifically for the deal, and you can order up to three of those medium pizzas.
There are two locations of Mellow Mushroom in Chattanooga, 205 Broad St. and at Hamilton Place at 2318 Lifestyle Way.
Contact Anne Braly at abraly@timesfreepress.com.