When I’m hungry for a burrito, my thoughts turn to Mojo Burrito. The same can be said for my nacho cravings. No one makes better nachos than Mojo.
Now there are three restaurants where I can satisfy my longings. With the success of her first location in St. Elmo, which opened in 2002, restaurateur Eve Williams expanded her burrito domain to two more areas of town — Red Bank in 2007 and now East Brainerd.
THE MENU
The menu’s pretty much the same at all three restaurants — design-your-own burritos, nachos, enchiladas, quesadillas and such. Even vegetarian chili can be made into a feast for meat lovers. That’s the beauty of Mojo Burrito: Every dish can be styled to your taste. If you like Tex-Mex food, there’s something for everyone in your party.
The order (for two): Guacamole and chips ($6.30); Elmo burrito ($6.95); Mini-Mojo burrito ($4.55); Papa Bear’s chili with ground beef ($3.85 plus $1.99 for beef).
The guacamole, freshly prepared daily with nice-size chunks of avocado, is some of the best in town. The price may sound steep, but you get a full order. It’s plenty for two and enough for four. It’s easy to fill up on this stuff. It’s just that good. But pace yourself. The burritos are massive.
Elmo starts out as a vegetarian burrito, and that’s how I left it — black beans, Spanish rice, cheese, lettuce, diced tomatoes, some guacamole, red onion and sour cream all wrapped up in a giant steamed tortilla. This was so fresh and full of vegetables, I didn’t feel the least bit guilty eating the whole thing. Next time, I’ll go for the Mini Mojo, which my dad smartly did. It really didn’t look that much smaller than mine.
Papa Bear’s chili is a year-round favorite at Mojo Burrito. It was a little on the thin side for me, but my dad loved it, commenting on its good flavor. It wasn’t too spicy, he said, just spicy enough to let you know it’s chili.
If you go* What: Mojo Burrito, n Where: 1414 Jenkins Road (295-6656), 1800 Dayton Blvd. (870-6656) and 3815 St. Elmo Ave. (822-6656)* Hours: Open seven days a week; hours vary by location.* Price range: $2.20-$9.25.* Alcohol: Beer.
As a side note, I’ve had the Macho Nachos several times in the past few years. They are the best I’ve ever had.
Best bets: Lily Bowl (vegetarian) with rice, beans and cheese; Enchiladito (deep-fried tortilla stuffed with chicken, black beans, cheese and pico de gallo served on a bed of rice, drizzled with queso and spicy sauce.
THE SERVICE
It’s cafeteria style all the way. Pay at the end of the line, then fix your own drink at the drink station. While it may seem impersonal, the staff is extremely friendly and willing to offer recommendations as they build a meal to your specifications.
THE SPACE
While the other two Mojos in town are in historic buildings, the East Brainerd location is a new space. You’ll recognize the same decorator touches when you walk in. The walls are painted in the same rich, deep jewel tones as the other two restaurants. Tabletops are hand-made tiles. It’s a comfortable, classic look that belies the stark, modern shell of the surrounding strip center.
THE VERDICT
Williams took her time and established a solid reputation for good food before opening her second and third restaurants. When will the fourth come? If history is a guideline, it may take a while. But there are plenty of convenient places to get your Mojo on now.