Panda Express offers solid but unexciting Chinese fast food

When reviewing Panda Express, you run into the same problem that you would if asked to critique the color beige. Do you praise it for its flair next to a dull off-white, or do you blast it for paling in comparison to pretty much every other color?

I was curious to try the chain restaurant, located near Hamilton Place mall, mostly to see if I would have any better luck with Panda Express than with the half-dozen other low-cost or buffet Chinese places I had tried in Chattanooga. Those experiences, which had ranged from bad to awful, effectively convinced me that only Formosa on Highway 153 does Chinese food well.

Yet, as I drove out to the mall area, I had my expectations in check. This was not going to be Formosa — not even P.F. Chang’s — but it was moderately priced, and franchise restaurants are popular for a reason. I was ready to be, if not wowed, at least pleasantly surprised.

The menu