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Tuesday, November 10, 2026Nov 10

Good wines won’t fix Thanksgiving, but they couldn’t hurt

Refreshing and ready for Thanksgiving wine options, from left: Lioco Sonoma County Chardonnay 2018; Gia Coppola Lake County Orange Riesling 2019; Domaine les Aphillanthes Côtes du Rhône Clémentia Blanc 2019; Mosel Riesling "1,000L" 2018; Forlorn Hope Queen of the Sierra Rorick Heritage Vineyard Calaveras County 2017; Castello di Verduno Verduno Basadone 2018; Hound's Tree High Wire North Fork of Long Island Pinot Noir NV; Franck Balthazar Selections Côtes du Rhône 2018. / Photo by Karsten Moran/The New York Times
Refreshing and ready for Thanksgiving wine options, from left: Lioco Sonoma County Chardonnay 2018; Gia Coppola Lake County Orange Riesling 2019; Domaine les Aphillanthes Côtes du Rhône Clémentia Blanc 2019; Mosel Riesling "1,000L" 2018; Forlorn Hope Queen of the Sierra Rorick Heritage Vineyard Calaveras County 2017; Castello di Verduno Verduno Basadone 2018; Hound's Tree High Wire North Fork of Long Island Pinot Noir NV; Franck Balthazar Selections Côtes du Rhône 2018. / Photo by Karsten Moran/The New York Times Refreshing and ready for Thanksgiving wine options, from left: Lioco Sonoma County Chardonnay 2018; Gia Coppola Lake County Orange Riesling 2019; Domaine les Aphillanthes Côtes du Rhône Clémentia Blanc 2019; Mosel Riesling "1,000L" 2018; Forlorn Hope Queen of the Sierra Rorick Heritage Vineyard Calaveras County 2017; Castello di Verduno Verduno Basadone 2018; Hound's Tree High Wire North Fork of Long Island Pinot Noir NV; Franck Balthazar Selections Côtes du Rhône 2018. / Photo by Karsten Moran/The New York Times

In this strange and disquieting year, Thanksgiving planning begins with the question of whether to have any sort of gathering at all. Which wines to drink with the meal will be the least of your worries.

That’s as it should be. Selecting wines may cause a mild quiver of anxiety, but it’s never really a problem.

Even in the best of times, when you’re embracing aunts, third cousins and your best friend’s sister’s daughter, the joy of the feast and the renewal of ties go a long way toward mitigating the quality of whatever happens to be in your glass.

Still, good wine can be a significant asset. It can compel guests to take notice, to pause and ponder rather than gulp and disregard. If bottles are to be opened, why not select them with the same diligence you apply to choosing the perfect recipe for mashed potatoes?

Thanksgiving comes as COVID-19 cases are spiking nationwide. Every family will decide how to approach this often joyously rambunctious holiday. Many gatherings will be diminished as people, protecting their loved ones and themselves, decide not to travel or entertain. Thanksgivings for four, or two or even one will not be unusual.