New York Pizza Department hit the Hixson market more than a decade ago, bringing a new dimension of pizza pies to the area - pizza that New Yorkers know well. It's the kind of pizza that takes a pro to maneuver, knowing just how to fold it and savor every bite. You might be tempted to attack the huge slices with a knife and fork, but you'd only embarrass yourself if you did. You need to coddle the crust, folding it ever so gently, encompassing every topping within its folds before taking a bite, much like a sandwich.
(READ MORE: Expansion complete for New York Pizza Department)
Now, NYPD has expanded into the Lakesite neighborhood, with a menu that includes a number of Italian pasta dishes and meaty entrees. It also has a large dining room and bar. NYPD isn't just a place for takeout anymore.
THE MENU
NYPD Lakesite has a larger menu with more appetizers, entrees, sandwiches, salads, subs, soups and pasta dishes than its sister restaurant. For starters, there are parmesan truffle fries, Buffalo chips and Buffalo shrimp, garlic bread and other specialties to begin your lunch or dinner.
Salad offerings include a wedge, Cobb, Greek, house or Caesar. Pair that with the soup of the day, or have a salad as a side to any of the dozen pasta dishes, specialty pizzas or build-your-own pies with more than two dozen topping choices.
This new eatery is more than just pizza place; it also offers weekend brunch with some interesting choices, such as Potato a la Gary, a big platter of house-diced potatoes with onions, peppers, scrambled eggs, bacon or sausage, cheddar cheese and Monterey Jack. Italian Eggs Benedict is another popular weekend choice, or order up a warm bowl of tomato-basil soup served with a grilled cheese on sourdough.
(READ MORE: Fighting COVID-19 one slice at a time)
If you go
— Where: New York Pizza Department, 8627 Hixson Pike, Lakesite (original location at 5731 Highway 153, Hixson)— Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-midnight Friday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-8 p.m. Sunday— Alcohol: Full bar— Price range: $10-$12 (lunch entrees), $15-$19 (dinner entrees)— Phone: 423-531-8830— Online: indoughwecrust.com
THE ORDER
My granddaughter and I decided on pasta: chicken Eliana for me, mac and cheese from the children's menu for her, along with garlic bread served with marinara.
The garlic bread came right from the oven, hot and dripping with garlicky butter. It was a nice way to start the meal with a glass of wine.
The child's serving of mac and cheese was very large, too much for the average pint-size appetite, but it was so delicious, I would have been happy to share it with her. This is not from a box of Kraft - it's cavatappi pasta (cavatappi is Italian for corkscrew), cooked perfectly then blended with a creamy white cheese sauce, to which my grandchild added marinara sauce left over from the garlic bread - a chef in the making. NYPD's mac and cheese should be on the adult menu - it's that good.
Chicken Eliana, as stated on the menu and confirmed by our server, is the overwhelming favorite on the pasta menu. Seasoned grilled chicken is served atop a bed of cavatappi pasta in a delicate sun-dried tomato cheese sauce. Unfortunately, my chicken was tough and chewy - a huge disappointment. I think the chicken breast had either been cooked in advance and allowed to sit too long or was overcooked to begin with.
As a food writer for the past few decades, I've often received emails from people telling me of disappointing meals, and the first thing I ask them is, "Did you tell your server and give the restaurant a chance to make things right?"
When our server stopped by the table to ask if everything was OK, I told her about the chicken. Within minutes, a fresh plate of sliced chicken was delivered to the table, tender and delicious.
This is lovely dish with lots of flavor, and as the No. 1 seller, I feel my misfortune was not a common one. Take this as a reminder that most chefs will do their best to make things right if they are made aware.
Other pastas include chicken piccata, chicken marsala, stuffed shells, spaghetti, shrimp scampi, baked ziti and fettucine alfredo.
THE SPACE
NYPD Lakesite opened in a large commercial center on Hixson Pike opposite CVS and catty-cornered from the Food City center in Lakesite.
The dining room is large with booths that line two walls and tables in the center. A partial wall divides the room, and the bar on the other side can be entered through a separate entrance.
THE SERVICE
Our server could not have been more professional and willing to help when needed. Orders were taken promptly and delivered with little wait time.
THE VERDICT
I'm happy to see that Lakesite is attracting more businesses and restaurants. NYPD is a welcome addition.
Contact Anne Braly at abraly@timesfreepress.com of annebraly.com.