Chase the scent of great barbecue down M.L. King Boulevard and your quest will end at Chatt Smoke House, a small barbecue joint that has gained quite a following since James Massengill put food to flame and opened his eatery nearly 14 years ago.
In many parts of the country, barbecue is a seasonal food mostly served during the summer months. But here in the South, it’s a food enjoyed year-round. And perhaps there’s no better time than during the colder months of winter when our animal instinct craves heavier meats cooked low and slow, enveloped in a canopy of smoke over a bed of hot coals.
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THE MENU
Smoked meats — ribs, pork and beef — are stars on the menu, as one would expect, and they are served either as a sandwich or on a plate with sides. There are additional options as well: a chili dog, with barbecue, if desired; a fish sandwich; chili-cheese fries; and chili by the bowl. There’s a chopped wiener plate, too.
THE ORDER
We decided on a pork plate with fries and coleslaw; and a rib plate with fries and baked beans.
Let me start by saying that $14 for a pork plate and $15 for a rib plate may sound steep, but given the price of meat now, it’s the new normal. But once I picked up each Styrofoam container and felt its weight, then opened it to reveal the amount of its content — easily 12 to 14 ounces of pulled pork in one and about a dozen ribs in the other, plus a huge side of coleslaw — I realized the value offered at Chatt Smoke House with each mouthwatering bite. Each plate was brimming with smoky sensations, so full that two could share or enough to take home for another meal.
The pulled pork was outstanding with just a drizzle of sauce so as not to overpower the meat. I love burnt ends — the chewy delicious bark produced on the pork butt as it slowly smokes — and the mix included several of those. At first I thought the coleslaw was going to be too creamy, but I was wrong. It was perfect. I love a good crunchy bite of coleslaw with each bite of barbecue.
Ditto with the rib plate. The bark was very nice and the meat extremely tender. Creating fall-off-the-bone ribs is a common goal for cooks of ‘que, but there needs to be a balance between meat and bone. The meat needs to stay on the bone until you’re ready to bite into it, then it needs to fall off, not before. The ribs at Chatt Smoke House achieve that good balance of flavor and texture.
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Buns come with every plate, and these were nothing special, a little too thin to handle a substantial amount of pulled pork and coleslaw.
Mention needs to be made of the sauce. Barbecue competitions include categories for sauces alone. That’s how important they are. I think the barbecue sauce at Chatt Smoke House could hold its own against any winner of some of the more prestigious competitions, such as Jack Daniel’s and Memphis in May. Wish they’d bottle the stuff.
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Photo by Anne Braly / The pork plate at Chatt Smoke House comes with a large serving of mouthwatering pulled pork and two sides.THE SERVICE
Alvin Massengill, James Massengill’s brother, was taking orders on the day of my arrival and couldn’t have been more helpful and patient as I placed my order then changed my mind and came back again asking that my ribs be served dry with sauce on the side. No problem, he said.
Service is semi self-serve. Place your order at the counter, then your food will be delivered. My food came within 15 minutes.
THE SPACE
Chatt Smoke House is a small restaurant with half a dozen tables in its center and three booths along a central wall. On a busy day, you might be hard-pressed to find a seat, so takeout is a good option.
There’s a refrigerator case filled with drinks and desserts opposite the counter, and don’t be surprised if a line of people waiting to order snakes around your table. Just keep on eating and be happy that (A) you found a seat, and (B) you’re enjoying a great plate of ‘que.
THE VERDICT
Walking into the restaurant on a blustery winter day and seeing smoke signals coming from the smoker out back of Chatt Smoke House made my stomach rumble with hunger. It’s little wonder that the eatery receives so many positive reviews, a testament to Massengill’s mastery of the flame.
IF YOU GO
— Where: Chatt Smoke House, 416 E. M.L. King Blvd.
— Hours: 11 a.m.-8 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Friday-Saturday
— Entree price range: $4-$15
— Alcohol: No
— Phone: 423-468-4978
— Online: chatt-smokehouse.com
Contact Anne Braly at abraly@timesfreepress.com or annebraly.com.
Staff Photo by Anne Braly / Chatt Smoke House on M.L. King Boulevard has been the place to get great barbecue for almost 14 years.