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Thursday, November 5, 2026Nov 5

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Fare Exchange: Rediscovering treasured recipes

Jane Henegar
Jane Henegar Jane Henegar

There is a story in a certain family of a husband who said, lovingly, to his wife at breakfast, “Hurry up and burn the toast so we can eat.” And in that family, there is a son who cheerfully proclaims, “Give me the burnt ones. I like them.”

Perhaps they knew something. Claire at Milk Street wrote these recent words.

“Burning your food can be a good thing. American cooks tend to be far too timid when it comes to getting some char on there, but a little bit of bitterness can do wonders for a whole bunch of ingredients. Take alliums for example, specifically leeks and shallots. Both are mild when sautéed or even roasted. But when charred or scorched — a technique common in Mexican and Vietnamese cuisines — you develop smoky depth and a beautiful color.”

What is your take on charred and burnt foods? Blackened fish and meat? What are your instructions, recipes and advice?

More requests: How about a wafer-thin cinnamon cookie? (Keep reading for details.) And we still need more: light, heavy and gluten-free pastas.