Skip to main content
Wednesday, November 11, 2026Nov 11
Subscribe
All Sections
Search
More

A border fence from ancient times: Hadrian’s Wall in England

In this July 3, 2018 photo, sheep rest in the lee of a section of Hadrian's Wall, in Cumbria, northern England. The wall was commissioned by the Roman emperor Hadrian and was begun around 122 AD, to control movement into and out of the empire. It cut right across what is now northern England, from coast to coast: a distance of 118 kilometers (73 miles). (AP Photo/Jerry Harmer)
In this July 3, 2018 photo, sheep rest in the lee of a section of Hadrian's Wall, in Cumbria, northern England. The wall was commissioned by the Roman emperor Hadrian and was begun around 122 AD, to control movement into and out of the empire. It cut right across what is now northern England, from coast to coast: a distance of 118 kilometers (73 miles). (AP Photo/Jerry Harmer) In this July 3, 2018 photo, sheep rest in the lee of a section of Hadrian's Wall, in Cumbria, northern England. The wall was commissioned by the Roman emperor Hadrian and was begun around 122 AD, to control movement into and out of the empire. It cut right across what is now northern England, from coast to coast: a distance of 118 kilometers (73 miles). (AP Photo/Jerry Harmer)

By Jerry Harmer / Associated Press 4 min read

If you go

Hadrian’s Wall› By car, Birdoswald Fort is 4 miles west of Greenhead, off the B6318. There are signposts as you get nearer. Sat nav: CA8 7DD. There is a pay car park a short distance away. Visitors can combine Birdoswald Fort with Housesteads Fort, a short drive away.› By train, the nearest train stations are at Brampton and Haltwhistle, about 7 miles away.› By bus, the local Go Northeast company runs seasonal routes to points along Hadrian’s Wall with its AD 122 service, https://www.gonortheast.co.uk/ad122/English heritage› www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/places/hadrians-wall/

BRAMPTON, England – “Looks like we brought the weather with us from California,” the elderly tourist says, pulling on a hat and strolling past me. He disappears up a grass slope, beneath a brilliant, blue sky, his wife beside him.

It’s the first of several American accents I hear that morning. Perhaps they’ve come to see what a real border fence looks like.

Because that’s precisely what’s drawn them, and me, to this remote and spectacular part of northern England: an imposing, defensive barrier meant to keep the bad guys out and the good guys safe.

At least, that’s how the ancient Romans would have seen it.