Fare Exchange: Readers share recipes for winter squash risotto and grillades with grits

Good morning, Fare friends. We begin with a semi-confidential request, from one who hopes her husband is not going to read what she wrote to us all. (She’s taking a chance.) “I am trying to get my husband to eat more vegetables, and I need help from your readers. He doesn’t like crunchy salads, definitely not kale. He loves onions and all well-cooked vegetables, but it’s recipes and combinations that I am having trouble with. A little meat is fine too, but I want recipes that are dominantly vegetables.”

The call for old-fashioned risotto recipes sent A. E. to a gift cookbook, “Sunday Suppers at Lucques,” and then to a similar recipe online. Both recipes include radicchio, but Ms. E. chose to omit. And then there is the thyme, which brings up our second question. “I’ve never cooked with thyme, but I am seeing it a lot in recipes lately. I would like some guidance or recommendations before I commit. What does it add to food?”

Winter Squash Risotto

2 cups kabocha squash, cut into 1/2-inch dice (One might substitute a favorite winter squash.)

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon thyme leaves, divided

1 1/4 teaspoons salt, divided

4 cups vegetable or chicken broth

5 tablespoons butter, divided

1 cup diced white onion

2 cups Arborio rice

1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes

1/4 cup dry white wine

1/2 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, divided

1/4 cup sliced flat leaf parsley

Heat oven to 425 F.

In a large bowl, toss the squash with the olive oil, 1 teaspoon of the thyme and 3/4 teaspoon salt and black pepper, or to taste. Spread on a parchment-lined baking sheet and roast for 20 to 30 minutes, or until tender.

Meanwhile, mix 4 cups of water into the 4 cups of broth in a medium pot. Bring to a boil and then turn off the heat.

In a large Dutch oven, melt 3 tablespoons of the butter over medium-high heat. Once it starts to foam stir in the onion, remaining 2 teaspoons of thyme, red pepper flakes, 1/2 teaspoon salt and black pepper to taste. Cook until the onion is tender and translucent, about 5 to 7 minutes.

Stir in the rice and half of the squash. Cook for 2 minutes, stirring constantly, until the rice is translucent. Stir in the wine and cook until it has been completely absorbed, stirring constantly. Add the hot broth mixture, 1 cup at a time, stirring constantly and only adding the next cup after the previous has been absorbed.

After about 15 minutes of cooking, begin testing the rice for doneness. It should be creamy and tender with a little bit of bite to it. Once done, remove from the heat and stir in the remaining squash. Allow to rest for 2 minutes, then stir in half of the Parmigiano. Season to taste with salt and black pepper. Stir in the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter and the parsley. Serve with the remaining Parmigiano cheese on the side.

Mr. T (not the pizza guy), making the most of a solitary New Year’s Day, made a feast of this dish. His source explained, “Grillades and grits is a dish steeped in New Orleans tradition — slow-braised, perfectly seasoned and served over a mound of creamy white grits. The grillades just sink in and everything melts in your mouth.”

Grillades and Grits

For the grits:

1 1/2 cups grits

6 cups water

2 teaspoons kosher salt

4 tablespoons butter

Refer to your grits package instructions for proper water-to-grits ratio. Add water to a large saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat. Add the salt.

While boiling, whisk in the grits. As soon as it comes back up to a boil, cover and reduce heat to low so there is gentle movement in the pot.

Cook, stirring occasionally, until the grits have absorbed all of the water and are a creamy texture, about 45 minutes to 1 hour.

Take the pan off the heat and stir in the butter until it melts. Cover the grits until ready to serve.

For the grillades:

2 pounds beef round or veal leg, cut to scallopini (very thinly sliced)

2 teaspoons kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon paprika

1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1/2 cup all-purpose flour

1/4 cup vegetable oil

1 large onion, finely chopped

1 green bell pepper, finely chopped

2 ribs celery, finely chopped

2 cloves garlic, minced

1/4 cup brandy

1 red tomato, diced

1 1/2 cups beef or chicken broth

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

1 teaspoon hot sauce, such as Tabasco

2 fresh bay leaves

1 teaspoon smoked paprika

1/2 cup sliced green onions

1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley

Season the meat with salt, black pepper, paprika and cayenne. Lightly coat with flour, shaking off excess.

Heat oil in a 12-inch cast-iron, heavy-bottomed skillet or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Brown the meat in batches, about 2 minutes per side. Remove and set aside.

In the same pot, add the onion, bell pepper and celery. Cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook for 30 seconds.

Add the brandy to deglaze, then add diced tomato, broth, Worcestershire sauce, hot sauce, bay leaves and smoked paprika. Stir well, scraping up any browned bits.

Return the meat to the pot, cover and simmer on low for 1 to 1 1/2 hours until the meat is tender. Stir occasionally, adding more broth if needed.

Remove bay leaves, stir in green onions and parsley and adjust seasoning, if needed.

To serve, add your grits to a shallow bowl. Place the meat on top and ladle sauce on top.

Just a Dash: This one’s from Kingfish, who remarked, “When you get to the advanced age of my friend Champ and me, the children become the parents, and the parents become the children. Not all bad, for sure. For instance, after a lifetime of cooking bacon reluctantly because of all the messiness, I learned how to do it right, thanks to my son. Just put parchment paper in the pan, making a bowl of sorts, with the parchment paper coming up over the edges. Bake bacon — I always prefer thick-sliced — at 350 F until done to your satisfaction. Drain on paper towels and when the pan is cold, lift the parchment and pour drippings into the trash.”

Thank you for your company this brand-new year; please keep it up.