At this point after the holidays, we could all use simple, savory dishes to counter the delightful excesses of cookie platters and blow-out dinners. But that doesn’t mean we need to take an ascetic approach to cooking or a retreat into plain, ho-hum fare.
Restaurant chefs know that just a pinch of this or a splash of that can lift the simplest dish into spectacular territory. The key is in balancing flavors and textures by zhuzhing up bland foods or bridging contrasting tastes with a neutral ingredient.
The mild, complementary components of our favorite comfort foods — pasta and cheese, rice and beans, chicken and rice, potatoes and onions — need a “counterpoint” for definition. Something sharp and acidic (vinegar, lemon juice, wine); or hot and bright (chili peppers, garlic); or umami, that mysterious fifth taste (olives, anchovies, capers, soy, balsamic).
A long, slow cook time — roasting, braising and leisurely poaching — is a simple way to marry contrasting ingredients. This works especially well in recipes that can be prepared ahead of time. Stored for a night or two in the refrigerator, their flavors meld and mellow together. Classic examples are the slowly cooked pulled pork or the long-simmered pot of chili. But long and slow simmering also works nicely with root vegetables — especially carrots, parsnips and beets. When poached in a tasty liquid, they become tender and absorb the flavors of the cooking medium.
Finally, it’s always a good idea to keep a few store-bought condiments at the ready, including chili oil, curry paste, good vinegar and extra-virgin olive oil, canned anchovies, olives and capers. Here are a few tips and techniques to help jazz things up: