Let’s admit it: Whole-wheat pasta is misunderstood.
It’s different from the white, semolina pasta — nuttier, denser and toastier — and delicious when allowed to shine in its own right. Don’t use it as a one-to-one swap; rather, lean into its nutty flavor and grainy texture. It’s a perfect match for savory, earthy and/or oniony sauces with richness and depth.
Like white pasta, it is best cooked in a big pot of rapidly boiling salted water, but drained earlier, when the noodles are at the “toothy” stage of al dente. Err on the side of undercooked, and start tasting the noodles a few minutes before they seem done. Be sure to reserve some of that pasta water; it contains starch from the noodles and can help enrich any accompanying sauces. Thanks to whole-wheat pasta’s heartier texture, it can be cooked a day in advance and leftovers keep their bite even after a day or two in the fridge.
The newest addition to my pasta pantry is Kernza pasta, made from the relatively new perennial grain. Kernza is a cousin of wheat, and its ecological services can’t be overstated: It is drought- and pest-resistant and reduces nitrogen runoff and soil erosion. But I choose it because it tastes so good. It’s nutty and complex with a firm and toothsome texture. You’ll find it in many food co-ops as well as several online retailers, including Patagonia Provisions and Perennial Pantry.
The twisty fusilli shape holds even the most delicate sauces. Given its hearty flavor and robust texture, it doesn’t take much to turn this pasta into a quick and easy spring meal. I like to keep things simple — lots of vegetables, fresh herbs, a splash of lemon, dollops of cream and a sprinkling of sharp cheese.