Country-side Cafe keeps it in the family with time-honored meals

It was a cool Friday morning. The air smelled of mountain mist and sweet wood smoke, and the scent grew stronger the closer I came to Countryside Café. It was such an idyllic way to end my workweek, I wanted to make a big deal about it.

"One thing we want to make a big deal about is David Geren," said assistant manager Alyssa Land. "David is our new kitchen manager. He's Marlene's son."

Marlene Geren has owned Countryside Café since 1990. David got his start in the family business at age 14. His first role was dishwasher, then busser, then server, then cook, and now, as an adult, he has returned to run the kitchen.

"This is the food I grew up with. The sweet potatoes, the okra, the beets. I'm keeping all the recipes the way my great-grandmother made them," he told me.

Marlene says despite her passing the torch to the next generation, she is not going anywhere. "I'm here too!" she laughed.

Customers can still rely on Marlene's easy smile and snappy new ideas. "Hasty, but tasty!" Marlene said, grinning, referring to Countryside's latest campaign that offers hot home-cooked lunch options in less than 10 minutes. Options include daily specials like chicken and dressing, country-style steak, meatloaf, chicken and dumplings and more.

"You might spend just a few more minutes driving, but you'll spend less time at the drive-thru and we'll get you in and out," she continued, adding, "Our food is much better for you, too."

Marlene says that as the region continues to grow, so will Countryside. "It is amazing how the demographics have changed over the years," she said. "My parents owned the Kreme House in 1976, so basically, we have been in Ooltewah for over 40 years combined."

In addition to bigger lunch crowds from a bigger business district, there has also been a shift in menu transparency. People want to know exactly what is in their food, said Marlene.

"We're getting good buzz on our vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free menu," she said. The new menu breaks down every dish offered under those categories. It even distinguishes between vegan vegetables and non-vegan vegetables - the difference being whether they are cooked with butter.

"We decided early on not to cook our veggies with meat," said Marlene. Regardless of the menu's evolution over the decades, you can also rely on Countryside's time-honored recipes, daily specials and variety.

Specials are posted promptly on Countryside's Facebook each day at 10 a.m. and again at 4 p.m. After 24 years, Marlene says the restaurant owes much of its success to its customers. "After all, the reason we are still here is because of the people we serve and the community that supports us," she said.

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