Restaurant review: Matilda Midnight is my new best friend

Matilda Midnight's spinach and goat cheese cigars.

Matilda Midnight's pork cheek nachos.

The Matilda is Matilda Midnight's namesake cocktail.

While I try to keep an open mind and pride myself on being a fly-by-the-seat-of-her-pants type girl, I have sadly come to realize that I am not big on change. So when I heard earlier this year that the historic Stone Fort Inn was transitioning to a hip "Mad Men"-esque establishment, I lamented the loss. The turn-of-the-century furnishings had a nostalgic appeal and charm that, while abundant in Chattanooga, is seemingly on the decline in this age of modern rustic.

Little did I know that what would replace those vestiges from the time of America's rise to international dominance would herald another golden era.

THE SPACE

Located on the ground floor of the now-renamed Dwell Hotel, Terra Mae, which opened in the Stone Fort Inn in 2012, got an update as well. Overall, the space has gone from one of rustic elegance to one of contemporary class.

The restaurant's formerly wood-topped tables are now a crisp white. In place of simple straightbacks and plush chairs and benches covered in neutral cloth, an enormous wraparound turquoise-colored settee with clean lines hugs the wall, and chairs with sunshine-colored cushions cozy up to the tables. In keeping with the rest of the hotel, bold wallpaper adds a unique touch and ambiance - and perhaps my favorite new feature.

Also sharing the ground floor is Matilda Midnight, a new, separate bar and lounge area offering exquisite drinks, upstyled tapas and, in my opinion, the most visually appealing atmosphere in all the city.

Here, the wallpaper invokes a feeling of "Alice in Wonderland" meets modern art exhibit. The ceiling glitters with tiny inset lights that twinkle like stars. A "living wall" fixture on the way in has sparked many of my Pinterest perusings as of late.

Despite the limited seating (two small wraparound booths and about a dozen bar stools) and long wait times - each drink is a true experience - Matilda Midnight is my absolute favorite place to get a drink in Chattanooga. And, it turns out, you also can score a full meal from Terra Mae.

THE MENU

Terra Mae's menu changed along with its décor. Previously touted as an Appalachian bistro, the food now has a more Asian slant, offering unique combinations incorporating bok choy, wasabi and ginger. It also appears to have been whittled back, with about a half-dozen offerings each for first, second or third course.

The meats are exotic. Take, for instance, the blistered soy-ginger pork belly appetizer ($10) served with toasted-sesame bok choy. Or the honey lavender duck breast main ($29) featuring foie gras, Beluga lentils, charred apples and melted onion. Listed beside that is wild-caught cobia ($28), served with rapini, fingerling potatoes, beets and garlic puree.

Matilda Midnight offers a short list of small plates, from pommes frites ($4) to a charcuterie spread ($18) to more filling options including a duck panini ($16) and shrimp fried rice ($12) - which, incidentally, I overheard a fellow bar patron gushing over after we'd placed our order.

THE ORDER

Upon learning we could have our drinks and eat a full meal, too, we grabbed seats at Matilda Midnight's bar. First things first: I ordered the Matilda ($11), a blend of house Aquavit, which I learned is a Scandinavian vodka infused with herbs; green tea powder, coconut foam and spiked pearls. While the namesake was not my favorite drink I've tried there (I prefer the Tower), it was a unique, layered experience, which, I've found, holds true across the board. The Matilda's subtly sweet start transitions to an almost dark-chocolate finish.

For the meal, we decided on the spinach and goat cheese cigars ($6) and pork cheek nachos ($12) from Matilda Midnight's menu, and Terra Mae's wasabi pea crusted salmon ($24) served with Brussels sprouts, house kimchi, jasmine rice cakes and black bean sauce.

The "cigars" were like egg rolls filled with the kind of creaminess that makes eating greens so much better. The nachos were spicy thanks to some jalapenos that actually had to get pushed to the side about halfway through, and framed by a hint of citrus. When eaten on its own, the meat tasted like a sweeter version of stew lovingly simmered until supple and juicy.

The salmon was equal parts firm and flaky. I'm spoiled. My boyfriend is a butcher who brings home Nova Scotia salmon that literally melts in your mouth, so this wasn't as good from a strictly fish perspective, but it was a quality piece of salmon cooked well. And perhaps its more steak-like consistency fit better with the intricate combination of accouterments, the star of which were the jasmine rice cakes. They somehow managed to pack the lushness of coconut curry without any sauce whatsoever. I think I could probably live on those alone.

I expected more from the wasabi pea crust, which tasted very mild to me. I would have welcomed the distinct over-the-top flash of heat wasabi normally packs. While I have a very particular palate, I'll admit it's not always the most discerning - my boyfriend said he thought the meal "popped." I will say the blend of vegetables and kimchi had just the right amount of charred saltiness, and the black bean sauce tasted almost plum-like.

THE VERDICT

While not overly impressed with the food, overall I'm still in love with Matilda Midnight, which I prefer to Terra Mae due to the dramatic ambiance and faster service. (The same small bar staff is responsible for both establishments' drinks, as well as Matilda Midnight's full service.)

Or am I just in lust? Only time will tell, and I plan to spend a lot there.

Contact Jennifer Bardoner at jbardoner@timesfreepress.com or 423-757-6579.