Cumberland Caverns' Volcano Room makes for a surreal concert setting millions of years in the making.CUMBERLAND CAVERNS
Cumberland Caverns, located just this side of McMinnville, has welcomed eager explorers since 1956, but has also had the unique distinction of being a concert venue for over 55 years. Eight years ago, it became the original site of the PBS-televised "Bluegrass Underground" concert series, though that affiliation ended last year. Since the split, the cave's private owners have partnered with Atlanta-based production company RCS Productions.
They "didn't miss a beat," launching a new lineup in February, says East Tennessee RCS representative Josh Burson. The new Cumberland Caverns Live roster has hosted a smatter of artists, like the twangy, Grammy-nominated Secret Sisters, lauded alt-country artist Todd Snider, and Americana group Son Volt - who happened to be playing on my sister's birthday. While not necessarily relegated to a particular genre, Burson says the lineup is dictated, in part, by the intimate nature of the venue, but adds, "Next year when we pick back up, we've got some really big names interested in us."
The venue has built an identity around its setting "333 feet underground," and while the path to the cave was easy, the descent once inside required a little more attention due to the grade. It's for this reason that neither the cave nor shows are handicapped accessible and alcohol is not served. I was thankful I'd worn real shoes, moreover because of the dusty red "cave dirt" and 56-degree year-round temperature inside.
I've been in show caves before, yet they never cease to amaze and impress me. Concert-goers can add a discounted hourlong pre-concert cave tour and explore some of the 30 mapped miles beyond the "Volcano Room," which serves as the music hall. I'd recommend it. Or, adventure even further by taking advantage of the overnight-in-the-cave option, which includes two cave tours (and breakfast!) for essentially double the concert ticket price. There is no way to describe the awe of discovering another world at the center of one which you thought you knew.
Perhaps that is why, in spite of those otherworldly formations, it was the view of the Volcano Room nestled at the base of a large opening that was most arresting for me. From the high ceiling hangs an immense crystal chandelier taken from the historic Loew's Metropolitan Theater in Brooklyn, New York. It lends an unexpected grandity that juxtaposes that of the cave in a fairy tale-like way, almost as if you've stumbled onto some hideout for the rich and famous during Prohibition.
The room can hold 750, though Burson says 400-500 is "the sweet spot." The seating and concessions have been upgraded, along with the lighting, he says. Surprisingly comfortable folding chairs seemingly occupied wherever the terrain would allow: halfway down the slope into the room, perched above stage right, and fanning out in front of the stage. I can't speak for the main floor, but that means multiple vantage points with unobstructed sight lines. The seating is all first come, first served, though there are several tiers of early entrance rights for an additional $10-$20. Even if the room looks full, walk all the way to the front and see what's available. There was a whole side hidden from view that was largely open. Melissa and I ended up about 10 feet from the stage - unheard of for the $40 ticket price.
While I'm sure the typical sound equipment was used (loaded onto flatbed utility vehicles so it could be hauled in), the sound was unlike any other concert I've been to. It had the frankness and purity of an acoustic living room performance or, so I'm told, a sound studio. This added to the intimacy of the show. Apparently a glitch caused the special stage lighting to go out before the main act. I didn't care. It allowed my attention to flit back and forth between the band, the cave and that chandelier, a surreal trio.
The Caverns in Pelham, Tenn., offers unmatched acoustics that envelop concert-goers.THE CAVERNS
Earlier this year, Todd Mayo, founder of Bluegrass Underground, opened The Caverns just on the other side of Monteagle. I'd venture to say he hasn't missed a beat either, perhaps even picking up the pace a bit. The lineup has featured a steady stream of well-known artists from Band of Horses to Wyclef Jean of the Fugees to world-renowned ukulele player Jake Shimabukuro, who played the afternoon my significant other, Jon, and I went. We arrived before the 3 p.m. gate time for an on-site interview. The few cars that pulled in behind us were instructed to pull over to the side of the road and wait until the gates opened, so be warned.
Previously known - primarily by the local and caving community - as Bigmouth Cave, The Caverns has the largest opening of any commercial cave in the country, Mayo says. Until he bought the property, that's largely all it was. "I could stand where the stage is now and touch the ceiling with my hand," he says. With the help of geologists, hydrologists, biologists and archaeologists, he managed to clear out a large room that has a distinct "Game of Thrones" throne room feel. Towering arched wooden doors lead into the space. A hand-carved inscription pays homage to the area's Native American roots as well as Mayo's guiding force in creating the venue: bringing people together. To that end, he has big plans: lodging built into the hillside, camping facilities and tweaks to the new venue, to name a few. Another cave on the property - with a room nearly four football fields long, according to manager Joe Lurgio - draws experienced cavers, and may soon host routine visitors as future phases are rolled out, eventually turning the property into a multifaceted experience. To help with both guest and artist accessibility, Mayo says he paved The Caverns' entrance and floor, and electric cars wait at the ready for any shuttling needs, though the short descent is an easy walk.
All caves are cool, hovering around 60 degrees. This one is also damp, sending the occasional water drip down your body and pooling shallowly on the floor. There was someone dedicated to wiping all the chairs down before the show, and the ushers carried towels as well, but that didn't help with the seeping chill this environment created. I'd suggest appropriate shoes, thick socks and a hoodie.
I was excited that the concession stand offers beer, with wine and canned cocktails to come. The focus seems to be on local. There are also rotating selections from small eateries we'd passed on our way in: fried "hot chicken" sandwiches or veggie wraps, for example. Our show was small, I'd guess 200 or so people. The venue holds 750 seated or 1,000 standing-room-only, and for bigger shows I believe there is at least one more beer counter than the one serving all the concessions that day. While I hardly had to wait for one of the dozen gleaming new bathroom stalls, it took about 15 minutes to get our beer. For this reason alone you might consider entering when the doors open an hour prior to showtime. The seats are all ticketed spots based on when you bought your ticket, as well as whether you got it as part of the hotel packages available, which offer a long list of other perks as well, including transportation to and from the venue.
The professional yet minimal lighting showcased the cave structure, the jagged rocks behind the stage giving the impression of a dragon's lair. The sound, too, had a mystical quality, seeming to emanate from within the Earth. It filled the entire room with a penetrating depth, ultimately becoming part of you, too. Despite feeling separated from the musicians onstage roughly 25 feet through the crowd, it was mesmerizing; almost spiritual.