Fare Exchange: On bagels, bacon/eggs & asparagus and peaches

bakery background
bakery background

Good morning, July readers. On this auspicious day every summer, we can expect to be well into homegrown tomato season and to be on the cusp of peach season. Note that the first recipe below calls for fresh or canned peaches - and now you may choose fresh.

That makes me think of the delicious messiness of holding a piece of summer fruit in hand - watermelon, peaches, cantaloupe, tomatoes - leaning over the grass or the sink to avoid dripping on your clothes, and taking a messy bite.

Before the answer comes the question: Who can supply an Almond Crunch Cheesecake? And what about a recipe for the Boathouse's Lotta Lotta Garlic Chicken? And does anyone have any recipe for spaghetti squash and two for grits: pimiento cheese grits and roasted garlic grits?

JUST PEACHY

Rosemary Palmer, who shares recipes through her blog notjustpaperandpaint.blogspot.com, featured a recipe that works in any season. This peach dessert may be used with either fresh or canned peaches.

For fresh peaches, to keep them from darkening you may mix 1 tablespoon of ascorbic acid powder or lemon juice in a gallon of water; add cut peaches immediately after cutting. Submerge completely and leave for 10 minutes. Drain well, pat dry and add to recipe.

Individual Peach Cream Cakes

8 ounces pound cake, cut into 1-inch cubes

1 cup cold water

1 (4-ounce) package instant vanilla pudding

1 teaspoon almond extract

1 can sweetened condensed milk

4 cups frozen whipped topping

2 pounds fresh peaches or 4 cups peaches, cut into small chunks; reserve a few pieces for garnish

Cut cake into cubes, set aside. Beat water and pudding together, just to mix. Add almond extract and sweetened condensed milk. Beat for about 1 to 2 minutes. Gently fold in 3 cups whipped topping.

To assemble, begin with just enough of the whipped mixture to cover the bottom of the serving bowl or trifle bowl - or jelly jar (see directions below.) Using about a third of your mixture, add a layer of cake cubes, then a layer of whipped topping mixture, then a layer of peaches. Repeat these steps, ending with peaches.

Top with your final 1 cup whipped topping and a few peach pieces for garnish. Cover and refrigerate. This is better if you make it earlier in the day before serving. Place frozen whipped topping and cake into refrigerator the night before to thaw. Frozen whipped topping will last longer than fresh whipped cream if it is in refrigerator longer than one day. You also can add more almond extract to taste.

As for using jelly jars as a serving container, here's what she said:

"I thought I would serve it in Mason jars since these are still a hot item. Small jelly jars were the perfect size. The recipe didn't change, but I did change the preparation up a bit.

"I sliced the pound cake lengthwise, then used a small glass to cut circles that would fit into the jars. Also, the peaches were cut into smaller pieces than normal. It took about 2 layers of each to fill the jar, and I left the final layer of whipped topping off."

To reach us

Fare Exchange is a longtime meeting place for people who love to cook and love to eat. We welcome both your recipes and your requests. Be sure to include precise instructions for every recipe you send. Mailing address: Jane Henegar, 913 Mount Olive Road, Lookout Mountain, GA 30750 E-mail: chattfare@gmail.com

ON BAGELS

Some of you especially like to read "Cooks Illustrated" magazine because it gives the why and not just the how of recipes. The correspondents who represent this culinary mindset to me are Mr. and Mrs. Sunday, experts for sure at the Why of food. Here is their latest commentary, for which I am grateful.

Their knowledge of regional cooking informs the words below. Many years ago. my husband and I lived in student poverty in New York City. We decided we would have a bread and cheese dinner once a week. I went into the cheese store and the clerk sized me up. "You want cheese?"

I said yes. He responded, "Cheddar, I guess?" I said yes. He said, "That is not the only cheese." And off went my cheesy education.

This, from Mr. and Mrs. Sunday:

"A recent 'Cooks Illustrated' has a long discourse on bagels. As long-time New York City bagel lovers, we'd have had to perfect a recipe if there weren't a good New York-style bagelry in Oak Ridge, Tenn., called Hot Bagel. We make a run up there fairly frequently.

"Every bagel we've tried in Chattanooga has been inferior. (Milk and Honey isn't bad for a Southern bagel.) Indeed, most bread in town is a wan imitation of the real thing.

"We expect the problem is economic. To get good flavor you need to let the bread dough proof, refrigerated at least overnight, which requires fridge space and time. Both are expensive and, if your customers don't know the difference, why spend the money? Pizza dough and bread suffer from the same problem.

"One cheat (brought to our attention by Jeffrey Steingarten of Coconut Cake glory) is to add 1 teaspoon of vinegar per pound of flour (we usually use malt vinegar, but most will do) as you're mixing it. It turns out the primary flavor that a long proof gives you is acetic acid, aka vinegar."

BACON & EGGS AND ASPARAGUS

Our correspondent A. E. wrote, "I love a recipe when I can see a photograph of the results. I saw one in the recent Williams-Sonoma magazine and had to go to their website for the recipe."

Poached Eggs with Bacon-Wrapped Asparagus

Eggs and asparagus are a classic combination that shines the brightest in spring, when tender asparagus spears are at their peak. If you can find chervil (or are lucky enough to grow it in your garden), feel free to substitute it for the fresh chives.

1 bunch asparagus, ends trimmed and thick stalks peeled with a vegetable peeler

1 tablespoon olive oil

4 bacon slices

4 eggs

4 slices country bread, toasted

Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper

Parmesan cheese for shaving

Snipped fresh chives for garnish

Heat oven to 450 degrees.

Requests

Recipes for:* Almond Crunch Cheesecake* The Boathouse’s Lotta Lotta Garlic Chicken?* Spaghetti squash* Pimiento cheese grits and roasted garlic grits

In a large bowl, toss the asparagus with the olive oil to coat. Divide the asparagus into 4 bundles of the same size. Working with one bundle at a time, wrap a bacon slice tightly around the spears and secure it with a toothpick.

Place the asparagus bundles on a baking sheet and roast until the bacon is browned and the asparagus is crisp-tender, 6 to 8 minutes.

While the asparagus is roasting, poach the eggs. Fill an egg-poaching pan with 1/2 inch of water, set over medium heat and bring to a simmer. Lightly oil the poaching cups and warm the cups in the pan.

Crack an egg into each of the 4 egg-poaching cups, cover the pan and cook to the desired doneness, 2 to 4 minutes.

Put the bread slices on individual plates. Place a poached egg on top of each slice and season with salt and pepper. Arrange the asparagus bundles alongside. Shave 3 or 4 thin slices of Parmesan on top of each serving, garnish with chives and serve immediately. Serves 4.

Eggs are beautiful, and expensive, at local farmers' markets. They are also bouncingly healthful; break one into a dish and it's firm, plump and a bright warm yellow. I am thinking that many summer meals just might do well to be based on eggs. More importantly, what are you thinking about that? Please let us know.

Upcoming Events