SAN MARCOS, Texas - I'm at an old, tin-roofed bar in Texas - its pockmarked, wood-planked floors and a bar well-polished by decades of beer mugs sliding across its surface are indicators of its age. There are men with beards and baseball caps playing pool. A lone guitar sits on the floor beside a man and a microphone. He hums on a harmonica, then picks up the guitar and the music begins. This is where George Strait got his start as a member of the Ace in the Hole Band. Stevie Ray Vaughan used to play here when he was in town.
This is Cheatham Street Warehouse. This is San Marcos, Texas, a college town - home to Texas State University - of many contrasts. Shop till you drop in the morning; when the weather's right, jump into Jacob's Well, a natural, seemingly bottomless pond minutes from town in the Hill Country village of Wimberley, or during the cold months of winter, hike around its borders and watch the wildlife that gathers in the 80-acre reserve. After all that, feed your hunger at a local barbecue joint or put on your best boots and enjoy gourmet-level fare at one of the town's beautiful restaurants. At night, you have several places to lay your head - from familiar chains to charming inns.
San Marcos was recently included in Thrillists's Top 10 Best Small Towns in America, and that's turning heads, bringing new folks into town to discover its offerings, as well as making returning visitors take a second look. In fact, Thrillist calls San Marcos one of the best small towns to visit before it is gobbled up by San Antonio or Austin. It's yet to be ruined by an onslaught of tourists. It retains its laid-back vibe, so for those of you looking for a fun getaway that's still off the beaten track, but close to big cities, San Marcos has what it takes to entertain you.
"The press of the recent rankings and notable status is appreciated," says Rebecca Ybarra-Ramirez, executive director of the city's Convention and Visitor Bureau. "The acknowledgement is reassurance of our successes."
Here's a look at what you might discover.
Eat up
It would be hard not to find something to suit your palate. Texas is known for its Mexican fare and barbecue, and in San Marcos, that's no exception. You'll find menus with a cornucopia of flavors.
-Palmer's Restaurant (218 Moore St.) is a feast for the senses. See the delightfully peaceful courtyard shadowed by giant oaks and persimmon trees as you walk onto the property. It's the only restaurant with a courtyard in the city. Smell the delicious aromas coming from the kitchen. And on Sundays during brunch, hear the soft sounds of an acoustic guitar duo playing against a backdrop of ivy-covered brick walls. The menu is a fusion of cuisines, with a bit of Southern mixed with Tex-Mex, such as the tortilla-crusted catfish or smoked chicken chile rellenos. Not to be missed is the weekend brunch where gooey buns can be had before entrees such as the signature Crab Cake Palmer - crab cakes stacked with sliced ham and poached eggs, topped with house-made Creole sauce. The beignets, too, give a nod to their neighbors to the east. Online: palmerstexas.com.
-Root Cellar Café and Bakery (215 North LBJ Drive) sits in the shadow of Texas State University, so take a seat outside and lift your eyes. The school is located on San Marcos' highest point. Once you've finished gazing, take a look at the menu. It's all-American food, from steaks and chops to burgers and pasta. On the lighter side, there's a nice selection of seafood favorites, including salmon, tuna and blackened snapper. Online: rootcellarcafe.com.
-Sometimes it's those small, seemingly nothing-type places that offer the best foods in town - those kind of restaurants that only the locals know about. Such is the case for Loli's Cafe (1501 Aquarena Springs Drive), a drive-through-only "hut" that has what many say have the best tacos in town for both breakfast and lunch. There are driveways on both sides, but if you happen to get into the wrong line, you'll be reaching across the passenger seat to grab hold of your meal. There are no seats, so you'll have to find a good place to chow down. But it's worth it. And with a number of parks in town, it's a delicious excuse for a picnic if the weather's right.
-If you're longing for a burger and a brew, or perhaps something along the lines of a chef-inspired meal, such as the Atlantic salmon with romesco sauce, tap into one of the town's best brew pubs, Aquabrew (150 South LBJ Drive). Live music, a beer garden and salsa dance lessons make this one of the liveliest places in town. Online: aqua-brew.com.
-Ivar's River Pub (701 Cheatham St.) is a story of recovery. Ivar Gunnarson opened the restaurant in 1996 on the banks of the San Marcos River. In 2015, the river flooded, and water came rushing into the eatery, causing so much damage, it had to close. It took two years to remodel Ivar's, raising the level to guard against future flooding. Ivar's reopened in October of 2017. It's one of only two riverside restaurants in the county - and grandfathered in. New zoning prohibits more restaurants to be built on the banks of the San Marcos. The menu is a nice mix of blue-plate specials, such as chicken fried steak and smothered chicken, alongside house favorites including poutine, Cajun-crusted pork cracklin's, burgers, Texas brisket, salads and such. Most every seat - inside and out - has a view of the river, making it the perfect perch to watch as tubers and kayakers go by. Online: Facebook.
San Marcos at play
If shopping is your preferred form of recreation, then San Marcos is the place to get your retail therapy. The San Marcos Outlets attract more than 14 million shoppers annually who have the opportunity to browse through 240 name-brand stores, including a few luxury brands, such as Armani, Cole Haan, L'Occitane, Michael Kors and Prada. With so many stores, it's a good idea to create a list of which ones you want to hit, then get going. "It really has become a destination center," Ybarra-Ramirez says of the outlets, both Premium Outlets and Tanger, which are located side by side.
Wonder World Park and Meadows Center are two of the city's natural wonders. Once known as roadside attractions, they're now referred to as theme parks.
The former is a park based on the first show cave in Texas. Think Ruby Falls on steroids. This cave was formed by an earthquake, and tours, conducted for more than 100 years, take you deep into the underground. Above ground, you can go topsy-turvy in the anti-gravity house, then board a train and splash through waterfalls before getting to the Texas Wildlife Petting Park. It's fun for all ages. Tickets run $9.50 to $24.95 with additional discounts for seniors and members of the military.
A visit to the Meadows Center is both educational and fun. Once a hotel on the shores of Spring Lake, one of the largest artesian springs in the world, it is now an educational arm of Texas State University where the study of the environment and its water systems are critical to the center's mission. Guests can take glass-bottom boat tours of Spring Lake, paddle around its waters and traverse its wetlands via a boardwalk. Interesting fact: An underwater archaeological dig in Spring Lake uncovered Indian artifacts dating back 12,000 years to the Clovis Indians. This is reportedly the longest continuously inhabited site in North America, according to underwater archaeologist Dr. Joel Shiner. More information can be found online at www.meadowscenter.txstate.edu.
Spring Lake is part of the San Marcos River system which winds its way through and around San Marcos. Its crystal-clear waters and ambient temperatures make it a playground for water enthusiasts, drawing more than 2 million "river rats" annually, Ybarra-Ramirez notes. Kayakers can test their skills in the rapids, while tubers enjoy a ride down the rivers on warm afternoons.
Adventures into the heart of San Marcos continue after the sun goes down at its many bars and restaurants. "Downtown is the heart of San Marcos," Ybarra-Ramirez says. There are also several music venues. Texas is dotted with music/dance halls - they're a tradition in the Lone Star State. Some are new and many are historic honky-tonks, like Cheatham Street Warehouse, where crowds - sometimes no more than a couple dozen - gather to hear live music seven nights a week. One of the best nights to visit is for Wednesday night's Songwriters Circle. There's no cover charge, and there's no telling who will take the stage. For a list of upcoming acts, log onto www.cheathamstreet.com.
Other music halls in the vacinity include Gruene Hall, opened in 1878 and a 15-minute drive from San Marcos. Broken Spoke, up the road in Austin, has drawn the likes of Tex Ritter, Willie Nelson, Ray Price and Strait to its stage.
Sleep here
San Marcos has lots of choices when it comes to finding a place to lay your head after a day of shopping, sightseeing and enjoying other adventures in Hill Country. From charming B&B's to numerous chain hotels to Airbnbs and other homes for rent, you won't have a problem finding a bed. Remember, this is home to the fifth-largest college in Texas. For a complete listing, visit toursanmarcos.com.
Here are a few suggestions.
-Palmer's is one of the best restaurants in town, but if you plan ahead, you can spend the night in its guest house adjacent to the historic eatery. Your stay includes a $30 gift certificate for dining in the restaurant, plus a welcome bottle of Texas wine - red or white, it's your choice. The guest house sleeps four - a king-size bed in the bedroom and sofa bed in the living room. There's a coffeemaker, Wi-Fi, TV and your own private courtyard - all the comforts of home.
-Hilton Garden Inn is the newest of the chain hotels in town. It's conveniently located a couple miles north of town, so it's convenient to Austin, if you want to check out the state capitol. It's also right at I-30, and while the views aren't the best, hopping on the interstate and heading north of south toward San Antonio takes just seconds. The beds are comfortable, and there's a good breakfast buffet.
-Crystal River Inn Bed & Breakfast isn't on the river, but it is close by. So if you want, river trip can be arranged. Or take a horse-drawn carriage ride - a wonderful way to see the town and learn more about its history. But take in the beauty of the place first. There are 12 rooms in three historic buildings, each decorated in a different theme and circling a rose garden with majestic trees and fountains.