Restaurant review: Robar surprises with drinks, food, Sinatra

For the truest taste of its savory and spicy flavors, sample the onions and toast squares of Robar's havarti cheese toast together. (Staff Photo by Cameron Morgan)
For the truest taste of its savory and spicy flavors, sample the onions and toast squares of Robar's havarti cheese toast together. (Staff Photo by Cameron Morgan)

If you go

› Where: Roba Cocktail Bar, Chestnut St.› Phone: 423-648-6767› Website: therobar.com.› Hours: 4:30-11:45 p.m. Wednesday-Saturday.› Price range: $4-$13.› Alcohol: Beer, wine, liquor.

photo Chocolate strawberries are a sweet treat to complete a light meal at Robar Cocktail Bar. (Staff Photo by Cameron Morgan)

I entered Robar twice: once through the door and again through velvet curtains. Frank Sinatra sang somewhere behind the bar, which is stocked so high, I felt it deserved a new definition for top-shelf liquor.

While it's not the best option for large portions, or even a substantive dinner like its sisters under the Rags Hospitality banner (The Blue Plate Metropolitan Diner and Local 191 Corner Bar, both on Chestnut Street), Robar Cocktail Bar gives quality food and drinks for those looking for a place to take your mom or your girlfriend.

THE FOOD

The menu totals out at eight dishes, each offering something different. Bar classics like house-roasted nuts with rosemary and kosher salt ($4.50) and cream of havarti cheese toast with pickled onions ($7) are a must for those wanting to munch and drink.

My friend and I had the havarti cheese toast. While my gut reaction was that this would be an elevated cheese plate, the dish was a take on grilled cheese. Don't fool yourself, though. This isn't your skillet-butter-bread-single-slice-of-cheese grilled cheese. Truly savory and spicy (I highly suggest taking the onions and squares of toast in one bite), I recommend this dish for those who want something more without venturing too far out of their comfort zone.

The waitress, who also tended the bar, recommended the mussels and fries with garlic mayo ($9.50) and the crab wontons ($13). While I couldn't partake as a vegetarian, I would extend this recommendation. The bar, which shares a kitchen with sister The Blue Plate, is quick with service and the plates are Instagram worthy.

We did treat ourselves to the chocolate strawberries ($6.50), talking each other into it with various inflections of "You deserve it." Not sour as I expected considering that strawberries are past their season, they were juicy and the chocolate was the perfect consistency - not too brittle that it breaks when you bite but not too soft to melt. Treat someone, or yourself.

At this point during the night, we had had three drinks, working our way through the menu. The drink menu - about 12 drinks, plus a wine list - serves a wide range of classics and new flavors to sip. I had the Southside Royale (gin, lime, mint and tonic; $11), and my friend had Hemingway Daiquiri (rum, luxardo, grapefruit and lime; $9.50).

The Royale is a spiked limeade that will hit you in the back of your teeth, much more than the gin-and-tonic I expected. The daiquiri was best described by my friend's response to her first sip, "This is how a daiquiri should taste." She followed up with a Between the Sheets (cognac, orange liqueur, white rum and lemon juice; $10.50), another strong choice.

THE SERVICE

Wednesday night was slow for Robar, but even so, the bar had a few couples. The waitress who greeted us was attentive, juggling each table well and backing the bar. She checked in a few times on us and made sure to recommend drinks.

Food was out within 10 minutes of ordering it and was fresh. Drinks were also served quickly and made strong - a plus when talking yourself into the price.

THE SPACE

Velvet curtains aside, Robar is small: 650 square feet in all, and it was previously used for storage by the adjoining Blue Plate and Local 191. Yet, it plays up this cozy atmosphere with long, high-backed booths against the walls and tables that fill up most of the space. The room is oriented so that it leads up to a small but well-stocked bar.

The design was completed by Revival Chattanooga and aims for a midcentury modern look. Robar stands out from others fashioned the same. The tiny touches of brass throughout and more ceiling-high velvet curtains create the feeling that this would be a place where jazz greats would grab a drink.

Downsides of the space was the walkability. This isn't social bar, but is more oriented to groups and couples. Tables take up most of the free space, which could be used to stand and walk about. Robar is the place to get a drink before your meal or after work rather than linger and chat.

THE VERDICT

I recommend Robar for someone who wants to wind down after work or wants to show a date that they know the Chattanooga bar scene well. It's not the cheapest, and I hope my friend knows that covering the bill was her Christmas present, but it's a solid venue. Robar deserves consideration in the choice for cocktails and should stand proud next to competitors like The Fix and Matilda Midnight.

Contact Cameron Morgan at cmorgan@timesfreepress.com or 423-757-6509.

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