Nonprofit downtown redevelopment group River City Company launched a public art project called Passageways in 2016 to highlight and elevate the potential of many cities' forgotten public spaces: alleyways.
The Scenic City Supper Club's spring dinner last Sunday fed into that mission, enlivening the alley behind Market City Center with 150 diners who sat down to a gourmet four-course meal between graffitied walls and the contemporary art installation that now spans the narrow passage. The piece, added in late 2018, builds on River City's initial pop-up installations by subbing in a permanent one, part of Passageways 2.0.
For Matt Sears, owner of neighboring business Mad Priest Coffee and Cocktails and one of the partners for the event, "Shindig at Cooper's Alley" was a culminating moment. Visiting the tables - built by Sears himself - he chatted with diners about the evolution of the space, from a place for the typical mischief and vagrants to a sell-out public gathering.
"With the increase in residential development in City Center and a vibrant Innovation District, foot traffic throughout the area is growing," states the Passageways website. "With limited open space in City Center, Passageways 2.0 and ongoing community events will provide opportunities for Chattanoogans to connect and feel part of a greater community."
That sense of community is also at the heart of the independent supper club series, launched by local restaurateurs Erik and Amanda Niel in 2015. The club hosts quarterly dinners in locales around town, bringing in guest chefs to work alongside chef Erik Niel and other area culinary talent to create unique menus tailored to the season and the setting.
Shindig at Cooper's Alley featured Kevin Johnson, executive chef and owner of The Grocery in Charleston, South Carolina, and a two-time James Beard Award semifinalist for Best Chef: Southeast. Harnessing the rich culture of his beloved Lowcountry home, he served up dishes including oysters with chili-lime granita, and sous-vide Denver steak with grilled bok choy, Carolina gold rice and benne seeds.
Paired with Niel, executive chef and owner of Easy Bistro & Bar and Main Street Meats; Ben Romines, sous chef of Main Street Meats; Justin Bennett of Pizzeria Cortile; and Jesse and Brittany Watlington of Bleu Fox Cheese Shop, Johnson helped deliver a meal that balanced both hosts' sense of place. Courses including wood-fire-roasted pork shoulder ragu and a deconstructed cheesecake with candied almonds and fresh berry compote were paired with featured beverages from Mad Priest and Chattanooga Whiskey, and ever-flowing rose from Cherokee Distributing.
As the plates were passed, the conversation flowed just as freely, an artful animation of the space and its purpose.