Chattanooga chef Ross Feinman shares the joys of collards, grits, cathead biscuits at Tupelo Honey

Staff Photo by Robin Rudd / Ross Feinman is executive chef at Tupelo Honey at Warehouse Row.
Staff Photo by Robin Rudd / Ross Feinman is executive chef at Tupelo Honey at Warehouse Row.

With no formal training at a culinary school, Ross Feinman, 27, has learned his trade by climbing the culinary ladder of success. During his six years at Tupelo Honey in downtown Chattanooga, he's donned many hats, working his way up from basic cook to his current position as executive chef at the Warehouse Row eatery.

It all began under the tutelage of his mother at home in central Florida, where he grew up. Here's a look at the first dish he made for himself and how that early training set the stage for a career in the culinary field.

Q: What's the first dish you remember making on your own?

A: As a little boy, I remember spending a lot of time in the kitchen with my mother and trying to put my own spin on some of mom's classic dishes for our dinners.

The first dish I actually can remember making is cottage pie - my personal favorite. I remember it so vividly because this was the first time I was allowed to actually peel the potatoes and carrots and cut them up on my own and not need any help putting the dish together, as I knew exactly what to do.

Q: What's it like working at a restaurant located in a mixed-use complex like Warehouse Row, with retail, restaurant and businesses all under one roof?

A: Compared to working in a standalone restaurant? The major difference I have noticed is that we get more tourists because of the surrounding shops within walking distance.

Q: Tupelo Honey specializes in Southern fare, so do you get diners from other regions around the country who may not be familiar with some of our dishes?

A: All the time actually. We get tons of guests who are traveling here from up North and have no idea what a collard or a grit is. A funny story to go along with that is that my mother, born and raised in New Hampshire, had no idea what grits were before my career as a chef. Of course she hates them, as they aren't cream of wheat!

Q: How has your cooking style evolved through the years?

A: I've learned different methods of cooking, such as using sous vide and also using gelatin to make panna cotta (an Italian dessert).

Q: Whom do you consider your mentor?

A: I still look up to a great chef I use to work with at this little mom-and-pop restaurant I worked at as my first job. I give many thanks to "Chef Billy," who taught me everything I needed to be the chef I am today.

Q: What spice or ingredients are you enjoying using right now?

A: Shishito peppers. They are great-tasting little peppers - a little spicy with just the right amount of sweet.

Q: How are you using them on the menu?

A: I enjoy our dish that serves them blistered, drizzled with a chipotle aioli sauce.

Q: What's your favorite dish on the menu?

A: By far, it's our shrimp and grits because it's fascinating to make the sauce from scratch and watch the dish come together.

Q: Tupelo Honey has always been known for its Southern specialties but has recently introduced a number of south-of-the-border dishes to its menu. How's that going?

A: I absolutely love cooking and creating new dishes using our new ingredients, and so far I have heard nothing but good things about our new south-of-the border spin.

Q: What's the one cooking tool in your kitchen you couldn't work without?

A: That's a tough one, but if I had to choose, it would be a whisk. I couldn't create the rich smooth sauces and delicious grits without it.

Q: What's something people may not know about you?

A: While I may seem quiet and restrained in person, I show my loud and feisty side in the kitchen, where I'm most comfortable.

Q: Complete this sentence: If I hadn't become a chef, I would have been ...

A: An architect.

Q: Would you care to share a favorite recipe from Tupelo Honey?

A: A good biscuit is a staple of any Southern kitchen, and ours are some of the best. These biscuits are perfect under sausage gravy for breakfast, served on the side with some fried chicken, or - perhaps best of all - topped with our scratch-made blueberry compote for a delicious snack. ("Cathead" refers to their size.)

Tupelo Honey Cathead Biscuits

photo Staff Photo by Robin Rudd / Cathead biscuits are one of Tupelo Honey's signature menu items. The biscuits get a sprinkle of salt and pepper on top before baking.

6 tablespoons butter, unsalted, melted

1 1/2 cups cold buttermilk

About 4 1/2 cups self-rising flour

2 tablespoons sugar

1 tablespoon kosher salt

3/4 teaspoon Lawry's seasoning salt

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon pepper

Heat the oven to 375 degrees. Use cooking spray to lightly coat the baking sheet. Melt the butter in a small pot on the stove. Combine in a small mixing bowl with buttermilk. Whisk together.

Combine the flour, sugar, kosher salt and Lawry's in a large mixing bowl. Mix well to incorporate. Add the buttermilk/butter mixture to the flour mixture. Stir just enough so it clumps together and is no longer crumbly. Do not overmix.

Using a large spoon, scoop up heaping spoonfuls of biscuit mix and place them on a sheet pan. Leave space between them so that they can rise during baking. Mix remaining salt and pepper together, and sprinkle a pinch over the top of each biscuit.

Bake on the top rack of the oven for 20-22 minutes or until light brown.

Contact Anne Braly at abraly@timesfreepress.com or annebraly.com.

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