Restaurant review: Fast-casual pizza a pleasure at Uncle Maddio's

The Steak & Blue pizza has garlic olive oil, grilled steak, mozzarella, blue cheese, tomatoes, spinach, basil and a drizzle of balsamic glaze.
The Steak & Blue pizza has garlic olive oil, grilled steak, mozzarella, blue cheese, tomatoes, spinach, basil and a drizzle of balsamic glaze.

My family is not very fussy about pizza. We usually opt for cheap carryout for family movie night, ordering our standard half cheese/half pepperoni for the kids and something slightly more interesting for the grown-ups. While boring, it's quick, easy and doesn't break the bank.

But this week we tried the new Uncle Maddio's Pizza on Gunbarrel Road. We're thrilled to have found a new place that's a step up from our usual fare, but a perfect balance of cost and quality.

THE SPACE

The fast-casual, build-your-own pizza joint opened last weekend in the new building that houses Bad Daddy's Burger Bar and Mission BBQ. Don't let the crowds waiting for tables at the other places scare you off - you'll be in and out of Uncle Maddio's before some of them even get their tables.

If you go

› Where: Uncle Maddio’s Pizza, 1924 Gunbarrel Road› Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Sunday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays.› Prices: $2.49-$19.99› Alcohol: Will serve beer after Aug. 8.› For more information: 423-847-4992

The front door funnels you right into the line to order your pizza. There's a large menu over the counter, but there are paper menus available for closer inspection. Since we came on opening day, there were about 10 people in line in front of us. Despite that, it took less than 10 minutes for us to get up to the counter, which was just enough time to figure out the menu and decide what we wanted. We placed our order, filled our drinks and grabbed silverware and napkins from the back before snagging a table.

There's a separate line at the back of the restaurant for pickup orders.

THE MENU

Pizzas come in 10-inch Individual ($8.99), 12-inch Medium ($15.99) and 16-inch X-large ($19.99). Those prices include unlimited toppings, though, so feel free to go to town on the 10 cheeses (one of which is vegan), 19 veggies and 13 meats. Some of the toppings are well beyond standard. Fontina and ricotta cheeses, black bean corn salsa and arugula and jerk chicken, chicken sausage and grilled steak all offer some great opportunities for adventurous new combinations.

It's all about customization here, so choose white, wheat or gluten-free crust, and then pick your sauce: Tomato Basil, Creamy Alfredo, Herb Pesto, Spicy Buffalo, Garlic Olive Oil, Zesty BBQ or Buttermilk Ranch.

If you'd rather leave the culinary creativity up to someone else, simply peruse the list of chef-created pizzas. The Big Max (mozzarella, pepperoni, Italian sausage, bacon and meatballs); Jamaican Jerk (mozzarella, jerk chicken, red onion, green pepper, pineapple and cilantro); and Alfredo Artichoke (alfredo sauce, mozzarella, artichoke hearts, spinach, red onion, Parmesan cheese, pesto drizzle and baby bellas) are just a few of the choices.

For simple pizza lovers, an individual cheese pizza is $5.99 ($6.79 for one topping). Kids meals include a 6-inch, one-topping pizza and drink for $4.99. Deals include a $7.79 combo with a one-topping individual pizza and drink, or opt for the Maddio Meal, a 6-inch, three-topping pizza with a side salad and drink for $8.99.

You can also customize salads and calzones for $8.99.

THE ORDER

We ordered pizza, salad, breadsticks and cookies for dessert. I chose the Steak & Blue, which had garlic olive oil, grilled steak, mozarella, blue cheese, Roma tomatoes, spinach, basil and a drizzle of balsamic glaze. This pizza was delicious. The pillowy crust was crispy on the outside but just thick enough to still be chewy on the inside. It was the perfect weight for my pizza preference. The first flavor that came through with each bite was the steak, which was tender and plentiful. The spinach was fresh and the blue cheese popped at the end. The glaze added a touch of sweetness that mingled nicely. I loved it.

My husband tried the Buffalo Chicken, with spicy Buffalo and tomato basil sauces, mozzarella, grilled chicken, celery, homemade ranch and blue cheese crumbles. The pizza was piled high with chunks of chicken and sauces. The heat was just enough to feel it, but not enough to make you sweat. The chopped celery added a nice little crunch to all the tasty bites.

I think the best deal of the day was the Cheesy Breadsticks for $3.99. It's a 10-inch flatbread with garlic olive oil, a generous sprinkle of Italian herbs, Parmesan cheese and basil. It's sliced into finger-size pieces and served warm with marinara and homemade alfredo sauce for dipping. And boy, was it fantastic.

My kids' pizzas were simple one-toppings, but my youngest loved that he could customize his cheese pizza with white sauce. My Greek side salad ($3.99) was large and fresh, full of banana peppers, olives, feta, red onion and tomato with a creamy dressing. To end the meal, we shared two, huge, chocolate chip cookies that were gooey and delicious.

THE SERVICE

Everyone was friendly, patient and helpful. The only gripe I had was that our first pizza came out about three minutes after we sat down, and items streamed out of the kitchen one at a time for the next seven minutes.

An owner/manager-type was walking around checking on people, so I inquired about the timing. He assured me it was just first-day kinks, and that customers can expect to have their entire meal come out together in the future. Workers were attentive, clearing our plates and asking if we needed anything throughout the meal. Be sure to include a tip when you pay at the register. Their service warrants appreciation.

THE VERDICT

Uncle Maddio's offers top-of-the-line pizza at middle-of-the-pack prices. We'll be back. If I lived on that side of town, I'd call ahead for carryout on Friday nights, too.

If you plan to go, sign up now for the pizza rewards program at unclemaddios.com or text MADDIOS to 313131. It's a buy-10-entrees, get-one-free program, and you get a free three-topping pizza when you register. I got my coupon in my email later the same day I signed up. You can't beat that as an incentive to try a pie.

Contact Sara Jackson at 423-757-6494 or saraj@timesfreepress.com.

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